It was a season of change as many fashion houses welcomed new creative directors, and while some stuck to the house codes, others worked to reinvent them. Fashion director we round up the noteworthy looks from the spring/summer 2017 shows.
Dior’s first female artistic director, Maria Grazia Chiuri, took bits and pieces from the maison’s history and made them her own. She used Hedi Slimane’s bee motif on sporty fencing-inspired looks, put the old Dior monogram on handbags and accessories, and reused Galliano’s J’adore Dior lettering on screen tees, waistbands and bra straps.
Chiuri’s own style came in the form of soft, fluttering blouses and embroidered tulle gowns with astrological motifs.
AMP IT UP
There’s no denying the strong influence on the industry of Demna Gvasalia’s designs for Balenciaga and streetwear label Vetements. The Georgian continued to favour top-heavy silhouettes (boxy shoulders on outerwear) with oversized market bags, while new introductions included slinky spandex tops and legging boots (yes, all in one).
Gvasalia said he was exploring the idea of fetishism, and we find ourselves inexplicably wanting more.
It’s practically impossible to pinpoint a single theme when it comes to Alessandro Michele’s collection. Renaissance-era brocade gowns with princess sleeves hinted at times long gone, graphic tees and lurex looks clearly came from the ’90s, while bedazzled glasses and flared-leg trouser suits danced in from a ’70s disco.
Elements from the East were also thrown in to spice things up. Michele, with his eye for the unexpected and ability to embody emotions in his designs, has certainly put his own stamp on.
Sparkling glitter lips, winged eyeliner, tinted square-frame sunglasses and a plethora of ponytails—the models at Fendi seemed to have stepped out of a space-age story book. The collection had a whimsical
lightness, even the brocade looks.
Silvia Fendi’s touch with accents topped off the outfits perfectly: hand-painted micro Peekaboos (they seem smaller, or are the bag bugs just getting bigger?) and the sock boot top our list of lust-worthy accessories for the season.
The way you dress is an extension of your personality, and who understands this better than Miuccia Prada? Her spring/summer collection was meant to be worn close to the body, with coats and A-line skirts with Velcro fastenings, dresses and shirts in tech fabrics, and ornately decorated Chinese-collar pyjamas trimmed with ostrich feathers.
Closely guarded and personal, even the brand’s new bag, the Ribbon, is clutched close to the heart.
HEART ON YOUR SLEEVES
All eyes were on Saint Laurent on the first day of the Paris shows for Anthony Vaccarello’s debut collection, which was the ultimate ’80s throwback. Puffy sleeves, sweetheart necklines and décolletage-grazing earrings were nods to a collection created by Yves Saint Laurent in 1982.
Vaccarello made sure his unapologetically sexy edginess shone through, with asymmetrical slits on thigh-high skirts, raw edges on Le Smoking suits and a daring nipplebaring dress.
The label’s equestrian heritage is taking a smaller role under Nadège Vanhee-Cybulski. Strong-shouldered shirting matched with high-waist trousers and asymmetrical-hem knit dresses in easy-on-the-eye hues were outstanding looks. Handbags came in all shapes and sizes.
The new Verrou shoulder bag (top right) would add an unexpected edge to any day look, while the crocodile mini bags (above), worn doubled up and around the neck, may not hold much but function beautifully as jewellery.
(Text by Justine Lee; Photo by Jason Lloyd-Evans)